by C. von Arte

Underground riches at Broadway East

he inconspicuous entrance to this oasis of chic is next to the Forward building, across from Seward Park. There’s a smart bar in front, leading up to an elegant restaurant that prides itself on getting all its produce from local green markets. In the rear hides a discrete DJ booth and a mesmerizing video screen wall (we watched a hypnotic floating jellyfish). A stairway goes down to an underground, late-night lounge.

I sat at the bar waiting for my companion, sipping a "New Fashioned" (Marker’s Mark Whiskey and muddled ginger). It’s an upscale bar, with no soda guns, so my drink was hand muddled and shaken, then poured by the friendly bartender. It was a good drink…

From their snack menu, I had the mushroom veggie spring rolls: crispy, with a tender filling and a sweet chili dipping sauce.

The staff is professional, friendly and attentive. After my friend and I were seated, we were greeted by a manager; a waitress brought our menus; a busboy brought our bread and filled our water glasses promptly. None were intrusive, all were helpful. I ordered a la carte; my companion chose the $25, 3-course prix fixe. We drank Malbec ($10/glass).

To start, we had the Spinach & Artichoke Dip ($6), served with grilled flatbread. The dip was subtle, smooth and in perfect contrast to the crispness of the slightly charred flatbread. My companion chose the Duck Confit, served with greens. The confit was a good sized portion and a good, rich start to the meal.

For our main course, I had the Braised Short Ribs ($20) that were succulent and filling, served on a bed of saut?ed greens and caramelized onions. As a side, I ordered their Tater Tots ($4), a whimsical take on a guilty pleasure of mine. The Tots were crisp, perfectly fried pillows of potato perfection. My companion had the Grilled Hanger Steak, perfectly cooked, served sliced and fanned attractively on the plate atop the creamy Swiss chard, surrounded by haricot vert and cipollini onions.

For dessert we ordered cheesecake—pretty standard fare, and a very good Molten Chocolate Cake ($8) served with a dollop of hazelnut ice cream. We also tried their Stump Town Coffee – a smooth, warm finishing touch to a hearty late fall meal.

Broadway East, 171 E Broadway (bet. Rutgers & Jefferson), 212.228.3100, www.broadwayeast.com Breakfast, lunch, dinner Mon-Fri, Sat & Sun brunch 11:30 a.m., Fri & Sat late night menu 11 p.m.-1 a.m.