by Anna Bennett

Epicerie is a perfect place for a flirt and a drink on a cold winter night

afe Charbon is a Classic French Bar, with an adjoining restaurant named Epicerie. We ate at Epicerie on a cold winter night, the bar was quiet, dark and candlelit—a perfect place for a flirt and a drink. We were led by the hostess through the doorway to a bright, cozy restaurant, with a wall of windows facing the bustle of Stanton Street in the evening.

We drank the house Cote du Rhone and Syrah ($8 by the glass). The full bodied Cote du Rhone was the better choice. The Syrah was lighter and more acidic, with an unfortunate tannin aftertaste. Good with our cheese appetizer, not so good with the shellfish.

We ordered classic French bistro food. The Onion Soup was a warm, thick, cheesy bowl of goodness. From the Tapas Menu (why does every restaurant now have a tapas menu? French tapas?), the goat cheese tempura was amazing: Small balls of perfectly seasoned, lightly battered cheese, nestled in a chunky sauce with a hint of horseradish.

The Mussels were served in a platter cooked in butter and wine, seasoned with herbs – also divine. And, overstating the notion that butter makes everything better, the escargot in butter with herbs and a hint of garlic, served sans shell in a classic escargot platter, were so yummy that we forgot we were eating snails.

In staying with the classic bistro menu, we ordered steak frites and salmon with a Cote d’Azure ratatouille. The steak had great flavor, but was a bit tough. (It would have been prudent to order the skirt steak.) The fries were wonderful: thin, crisp, and a perfect accompaniment (when you add catsup, which is conveniently on the table – this is New York after all!). The grilled Salmon was cooked perfectly, flaky and moist. The ratatouille was ok, a bit heavy on the tomato for me. I would have preferred the side of green salad that came with the steak.

The molten chocolate cake, served with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream, is a culinary cliche. But things become clich? because they work, and this cake did not disappoint. It was wonderful, the dense liquid chocolate contrasting with the crust of the cake, lightened by the whipped cream and then mellowed by the ice cream – a party in my mouth. The Apple Tart Tatin was a 6/10: the apples caramelized perfectly, the crust a little undercooked.

Our waiter was central casting-quality French, patient while we dissected the menu, helpful with information and quick.

Cafe Charbon-Epicerie, 170 Orchard St, (bet. Rivington & Stanton), 212.420.7520, cash or Amex only, dinner for two cost $100 + tip.