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THE POLITICS OF NOSH Pickles For Kerry Why do some news media continue to describe a Lower East Side that’s long gone?
by Yori Yanover
or Kerry’s Jewish brother,
pickle choice is order of day,"
a Jewish Telegraphic Agency
story ran last month, as the
Democratic party’s nominee’s brother
Cameron Kerry, “discussed Jewish
issues over a pastrami sandwich with
Assembly Speaker Sheldon Silver.”
That the event took place, according
to JTA, at “Noah’s Ark deli on Grand
Avenue,” can be forgiven. Grand Street,
Grand Avenue, they’re all basically non-number
thoroughfares down there, below
Houston Street, where Jews and other
colorful ethnics munch on their spicy
foods. Less forgivable was the fact that
the entire affair was depicted as a deleted
scene from Fiddler on the Roof.
“The talk quickly turned to more
important issues — like pickles,”
reported JTA (a news agency featuring
the telegraph in its name and,
presumably, transmitting its copy by
Morse code). The story continued:
“Kerry said he preferred the half-sour
variety, which he demonstrated by biting
into one.”
Cameron Kerry, a convert to Judaism
(in Reform Movement style, which may
be disputed by competing
denominations) noted that his brother
John, a Catholic, “often joined his family
for Shabbat dinner, though the senator
from Massachusetts had never come to
a family Passover Seder.”
A quick Republican spinner could
have used this no-show to suggest that,
as the Seder is a celebration of freedom,
John Kerry may be harboring proslavery
sentiments. But the JTA story
just continued to seek its own Anatevka
roots with lines like: “As the lunch
wound down, one or two of the diners
slipped some of the warm rugelach that
had been put out for dessert into their
purses and briefcases. One asked for a
brown paper bag and emptied a
plateful.”
There was, apparently, a Q & A
segment, when brother Kerry was asked
about his favorite Jewish food. “Lox,”
he said.
The phenomenon of catering (literally)
to large blocks of ethnic voters through
cheap gastronomical gestures is not
limited to this campaign, and certainly
not to Jewish voters. Why, President
Bush has been bar-b-cueing so many
ribs for the down-home folks, he could
qualify as a franchise. So why did the
scene on “Grand Avenue” bother me so
much this time around?
It probably has to do with the fact that
the Lower East Side in which Cameron
Kerry imagined he was gnawing on his
semi-sour pickles has been gone for at
least fifty years, and its disappearance
has been accelerated in the last five. The
Eastern European Jewish character of
the neighborhood is a cherished memory,
but in reality the centers of vibrant
traditional Jewish life have long since
moved to Brooklyn, Queens, Nassau
County, Westchester County, Riverdale
and New Jersey.
The slow decline of traditional Jewish
life on the Lower East Side is a serious
concern, born by economic changes and
the changing needs of Jewish families
in the city. Frankly, I think these changes
are inevitable. I also trust that the local
Jewish community will find adequate
ways to preserve its way of life down
here. Jews do the survival thing better
than any other known human group.
None of that very real set of changes
finds its expression in pickle and pastrami
stories a la JTA. I’m sure the candidate’s
brother, the Speaker and the assembled
local dignitaries, all of them intelligent
and enterprising people, discussed many
issues not directly related to Jewish
cuisine. Our city, especially downtown,
is still waiting for full delivery on
promises made after 9/11.
So why did the visit end up as a poster
for any one of Shalom Aleichem’s more
colorful creations? I suspect it’s because
JTA is serving a constituency of national
Jewish newspapers, and those are much
more interested in the pickle and lox
angle than they are in learned discussions
of the state of Jewish communities in
America.
I live among so many active, creative
men and women, published authors,
concert musicians, renowned artists, as
well as an amazing list of people in high
office in Law, Finance and Trade. Yet I
discover regularly that my neighborhood
is still perceived by the media as the
domain of pushcarts (and, occasionally,
of regressive early 80’s punk rockers).
You’re going to eat this pickle?
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